To the east
The next day it was raining heavily. Only a couple of weeks earlier, Ukraine had been in the grip of a fearsome heatwave with temperatures well over 40°C, but it had clearly broken now. Lviv in the rain was not quite as enchanting as Lviv in the sunshine, and I decided to book a train to Kiev for that evening. To do this, I went to the ticket booking office in town, and reused a method which had worked a treat when I was in Moscow – I wrote down my destination in Cyrillic, the time of train I wanted, and the word for ‘sleeper’, and handed it over. The woman behind the counter passed back a demand for a modest number of hryvnia, I handed it over, and I got a ticket for the night train to Kiev in return.
The train was at 10pm so I had all day to kill. I met Johan and Brianna for lunch, which we had at a curious place that Johan had wanted to try out. It was called Kupol and the decor was pure 1930s. It was like having tea round a very old person’s house. But the food was cheap and very good and I liked it. After lunch I wandered around randomly, taking whichever street looked the most interesting and covering a good part of central Lviv in the process. In the evening I went back to the place we’d eating the night before and had an awesome nalisniki (traditional Ukrainian pancake) for dinner.
By now it was dark, and I set out to walk back to the station. I passed the impressive church we’d passed on our way in to town, took a slight wrong turn into a dodgy part of town, quickly backtracked and made it to the station unscathed. I took a few photos of the massive station arch while I waited for the train. It rumbled out of the station at 10pm, and I sat back to enjoy the journey.
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