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KUMU

Sunday, October 19th, 2008 | Estonia 2008 | 59°26' N, 24°48' E
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KUMU

I met up with an Estonian friend in the evening. We went to a restaurant in the old town with a mediaeval theme, and one of the things on the menu was bear. I’ve been a vegetarian since I came back from South America, but I like to make the odd exception for cultural experiences. I hadn’t had any culinary cultural experiences since I’d eaten shark’s stomach in China in April 2007, so I decided it was about time. I really enjoyed it, the only problem being that not having eaten meat for so long, I didn’t have any reference point to compare the taste to.

The next day it was warmer, cloudier and calmer than it had been. I decided to go to the KUMU art gallery, and followed signs from the city centre. It took me about an hour, and was quite a nice walk at first, with views through the woods to the Baltic, but later the route went through a muddy car park onto a back road. I worked out later that I’d walked four times as far as I needed to – there was a pedestrian short cut I could have taken that would have got me there from town in about 15 minutes.

The gallery was a good place to spend a rainy afternoon. There was a lot of art from the early 20th century that wasn’t particularly inspiring, but also a lot of more contemporary stuff. There was an interesting exhibition about art in the Soviet times, with propaganda posters and quotes from Soviet authorities decrying abstract art – “works that do not do credit to the author’s understanding of the principles of social realism” and “freakish shapes, which have no utilitarian or decorative value”.

As darkness fell I walked the short way back into town.

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