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Central America 2000 - Irazú (Ovavu)

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We had intended to depart for San Jose early the next day, but Jose said there was a great fruit market in Alajuela, so we went to that. It was a vibrant, colourful affair, with a beer tent and live music, and we had a great time buying lots of weird tropical fruits. I got horrifically sunburnt for the first time on the trip, but it had been a fun day so I didn't mind. Eventually at about 4pm we left for San José.

This meant we arrived just after dark, and it was raining. This is not really a sensible time to arrive in a big bustling Latin American capital, and it wasn't long before we attracted unwanted attention. 'Where you going?' said a shifty looking character. 'We're looking for the Tica Linda hostel' we said. He strode off purposefully, beckoning to us to follow him. Having no better plan, we did just that. He introduced himself as Patrick Fernandez, and said he hoped we'd enjoy Costa Rica. Friendly enough, but when he began walking down very dodgy looking streets, we began to worry. Then he walked into a dark unlit park, and we began to really worry. We made it out the other side unscathed, though, and saw a sign saying 'Hotel Rialto'. We sent Patrick on his way and checked in. Only much later did we realise that 'Tica Linda' means beautiful Costa Rican woman, and we could then see exactly what had been happening.

The crater lake of Volcán Irazú
The crater lake of Volcán Irazú

We managed to avoid any further faux pas that evening, and after a very noisy night at the Hotel Rialto, we got a bus the next morning to Volcán Irazú. At 3432m, it is the highest active volcano in Costa Rica, and like Poás, is a well-developed tourist attraction. However, unlike Poás, we found that the summit was cloaked in thick cloud when we got there. We walked to the edge of the crater, but we could see nothing, so we went and ate a rice and beans breakfast in the food shack near the top. However, about an hour later, things were brightening a bit, and we walked back to the crater edge. The cloud was thinning rapidly, and suddenly we could see green far below, and a few moments later the view was clear.

Irazú erupted last in 1965, but has been quiet since then. It is less lunar than Poás, and the lake is green, but otherwise it's much the same - a rather safe, touristy, and unadventurous destination. Impressive, but we were eager to get on to more remote areas, so the next day, we got a bus over the mountainous spine of Costa Rica to Volcán Arenal.




Main page / The participants / Acknowledgements / About this site / Contact / A map of Central America

Main page / Introduction / The way to San José / Up to Poás / Irazú (Ovavu) / Crazy exploding volcanoes / Onwards and upwards / Into Nicaragua / Ometepe / The Immaculate Concepción / Raindrops keep falling on my head / Return of the Masaya / Through the volcanoes / Silent cyclists and snakes / Border nightmare / Copán just fine, thanks / Latin American driving / Antigua / We climb our first volcano / Down to the lake / Quite high / Evil saints and sunrises / Very high / Best sunrise ever seen / Towering temples at Tikal / The end of everything / Epilogue