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South America 2005

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After my trip to China in 2002, I didn't go on any major journeys for a while. Finishing my PhD took priority over travel, and after I'd finished it my battered finances needed repairing. It wasn't until late 2005 that I was able to make it away, to the last continent except for Antarctica that I hadn't yet visited. So on 18 October 2005 I flew via New York to Buenos Aires, with the aim of visiting as much of South America as I could in the following four months. The journey took me from the very southern tip of the continent up to the Equator, taking in extremes of heat and cold, wilderness, cities, ancient cultures, and erupting volcanoes. My account and photos start here.




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Beginnings / Good airs / The forgotten country / Brazil, briefly / The Sweden of South America / Into Patagonia / Land of fire / Torres del Paine / Glaciar Grey / Middle of the W / Leaving Las Torres / Moreno Glacier / El Chaltén / Ruta 40 / Carretera Austral / Sailing up the coast / Close to the heat / Santiago / Into the Atacama / Desert heat / Geysers / Higher and higher / Days of salt / Train cemetary / In the mines / The two capitals / Christmas by the lake / The most dangerous road in the world / Island of the Sun / Machu Picchu / Such great heights / Return to sea level / Ruins of the north / Trapped in Loja / One last volcano / Ends