Great Wall: Huanghua

Thursday, August 1st 2002

Visiting the Great Wall was one of the first things I'd done in China. At Simatai, the setting of the wall is spectacular, but although it's not as touristy there as other restored parts of the wall, I fancied visiting a more remote part of the wall. I headed for Dongzhimen bus station, and got a bus to Huairou. At Huairou, there should have been a bus to Huanghua, an unrestored and little-visited part of the wall, but I had no map, no idea of where the bus stop might be, and a crowd of taxi drivers telling me there were no buses anyway. Rather than wander aimlessly I decided to go with the taxi plan, and soon afterwards arrived at a hamlet by a reservoir, from which the wall snaked away over the hills.

The weather wasn't great. It was warm and extremely humid, and mist was draped over the hillsides. Huanghua clearly wasn't so remote that no-one went there - a small restaurant in town had a sign saying "Mentioned in Lonely Planet! Only restaurant at Huanghua!" on it. But as I set off up the wall I was quickly out of sight of anyone, and enjoyed the solitude.

The wall was crumbling and overgrown here, and it was quite a strenuous hike up it. Soon I was sweating impressively, and after half an hour or so I looked like I'd jumped in a swimming pool. The mist made the scene quite atmospheric, and I was not unhappy that it wasn't sunny like it had been at Simatai.

I plodded up the wall for three hours, and met two foreigners and five or six locals along the way. I walked up to Gaping Jaw, a valley into which the wall plunges down Sawtooth Slope. The slope was as steep as anything at Simatai, and I would have walked down it, but that would have committed me to probably another hour of walking before another path back to Huanghua unless I wanted to retrace my steps, and I was running out of water. So I headed away from the wall, taking a forest path which led me back to Huanghua village.

I wasn't sure what I'd arranged with my taxi driver. Due to language difficulties, I had no idea if I'd hired him to take me back to Huairou or not, but when I got back to the village he was there waiting for me. He wasn't much impressed with how I looked after three hours of hot, humid hiking, though, and he looked like he was going to tell me to bugger off and get the bus. But grudgingly he drove me back to Huairou, and I got a bus back to Beijing from there.

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