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Through the steppes

Saturday, August 10th 2002

With no border to cross during the third night, I got a good night's sleep for the first time since leaving Beijing. I slept right through Krasnoyarsk and the Yenisei River, which I'd wanted to see, but I woke up in time to see us pass kilometre post 3933, marking the half way point of our journey. One thing that surprised me was how fast we were going. The only other trains journeys I'd done of anything like comparable distance were in Australia, and there the trains never felt like they really got going, rumbling along slowly and averaging about 30 miles an hour. Here in Siberia we were racing along most of the time, eating up the miles, but still needing six days to cover the whole five thousand.

All across Siberia, there were women on station platforms selling hom-made food. At Mariinsk, I'd just bought a tasty bread thing with potatoes and herbs in it, when an out of breath German guy accompanied by two angry-looking Russians rushed up to me and asked me if I could possibly lend him 200 US dollars. I couldn't, but Andrew from Australia who I'd been talking to had lots of dollars, and by coincidence the German had a lot of Aussie dollars with him, so they came to a deal.

As the train pulled away, we found out what had happened. At a stop two hours earlier, the German had checked with the provodnik that we would be stopping for a little while, and then gone into the station building to buy some water. This involved crossing some tracks. When he came out from the building, there was a vast freight train going by on the tracks between him and us, and by the time it passed, our train had left. He'd got a taxi to the next stop, but arrived there just as our train pulled out. His first taxi driver didn't want to drive any further, so the two of them got into a second taxi and chased us down. They caught us up at Mariinsk, but then the two taxi drivers demanded extravagant payment. With Andrew's help, they were paid off, and the German was now laughing about the whole thing. I didn't think I would have been.

In the afternoon we passed Novosibirsk and crossed over the Ob river. The temperature was 30°C, which seemed strange in Siberia. We had 3335 kilometres and three time zones to cross before Moscow.

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