Return to Roque de los Muchachos
The first time I'd been to La Palma, I didn't know too much about it until I was on the plane to Madrid. My boss had done all the hard work while I was off getting lost on African mountains. Two years later, the situation was very different: I was now the Principal Investigator on a proposal, and so it was much more under my own steam that I returned to the Canary Islands.
By coincidence, I was observing on exactly the same dates I'd observed on in 2001. Then, the moon had been full, and Saharan dust had clogged the air. This time, there was no Kalima, and it was new moon, so the skies were properly dark. But just like last time, the taxi to the mountain top made me horribly car sick. I spent my first night on the mountain top recovering from that.
My two nights of observing went well. The skies stayed completely clear, there were no technical hitches, and I had time to observe something I hadn't even planned to, which turned out to be only the fourth known star of a certain type in our entire galaxy of 200 billion stars.
I was doing some long exposures of my objects, so I had time to get out and appreciate the night sky. Mars was at the time closer to the Earth than it had been for tens of thousands of years, and it shone brightly and redly.
After my second night at the telescope, I drove up to the top of the mountain in the early morning sun. Like last time, the views were incredible and there was no-one else up there but me. To the north was a sea of clouds; to the south, I could see the chain of volcanic cones which runs down the spine of La Palma. In the distance I could see Tenerife, almost a hundred miles away but quite clear.
After that I headed home. I spent one night at sea level in Santa Cruz, and I had a little bit of time to look around. I wandered the cobbled streets, feeling a bit like I was jetlagged after two nights at the telescope. During my first trip I was still recovering from my African travels, and what with missing the flight on the way to La Palma, and then feeling wrecked by five nights of observing, I hadn't really noticed what a beautiful island La Palma is. Now I could see that it was rugged and wild, but I didn't have time to go and explore. I decided that if I ever got another chance to come back here, I'd see much more of the island than just Santa Cruz and the mountain top.