We went to West Berlin on our last morning in the city. Most of the cool things seemed to be in the east, and we walked down the Kurfürstendamm from Zoo station without finding much to detain us. But we did pass the Gedächtniskirche. I'd seen it in 2002 but only from a distance when I'd got off the train from Warsaw at Zoo station. This time we walked right up to the bottom of it. It's a pretty shocking sight - the ruined shell of a church, left unrepaired since it was bombed in 1943.
We headed back east and went to an awesome club in the evening. This was the dual personality of Berlin - on the one hand you can't get away from the fact that it was the epicentre of the most destructive war in human history. And on the other hand it's hard to find a city more dynamic, progressive and exciting.