I walked down to the sea. It was grey and overcast, but out in the distance I could see blue skies, and they were gradually coming closer. I walked along the coast, around to the shores of Marsamxett Harbour. Across the water, I got my first sight of Valletta, with the skyline dominated by the vast dome of the Carmelite Church. Ferries were running back and forth across the harbour, and given that this part of Sliema was incredibly ugly, while Valletta looked beautiful, I thought I'd better head over. I got on the next ferry, and a few minutes later I was in one of the most atmospheric cities in Europe.