On a rainy Sunday, I wasted most of the day being incapacitated by tiredness. But eventually I dragged myself sleepily out and got a ferry to Central. Wandering randomly, I passed the Man Mo temple. I'd been here ten years ago and thought it was awesome, the air thick and choking with incense ash, a strange different world enclaved in the busy city. So I went in again, for as long as I could hold my breath. How the temple maintainers stand to be in there day after day, I do not know.